Saddleback and Jay Mountains - Jay Mountain Wilderness Area - 11/2/14

I always love to get out after a fresh snow, especially the first one of the season.  I knew a little snow was expected in the North Country overnight and that a sunny, windy day was expected.  I also wanted to hike another peak on the ADK hundred highest list.  The one I chose for today was Saddleback Mountain in the Jay Mountain Wilderness Area.

My wife Leesa was too busy to hike today, but she offered to drop me off at my starting point if I wanted to do a traverse of Saddleback and Jay and finish at the Jay trailhead.  Thank you Leesa!  I always prefer a traverse to an out and back.

She dropped Rev and I off at the height of land on the Jay Mountain Road (just south of Frenyea Mountain).  I asked that she arrive at the Jay trailhead in about 5 hours; just in case I was that fast!  I didn't want to be waiting around in the cold.  She agreed, and off she went.

The start of the bushwhack looked a little intimidating, but it wasn't bad.  There are some cliff scrambles on the south side of Frenyea Mountain, so I went NE to avoid them.  Once I was east of Frenyea, I turned west to hit the summit (I can't skip a named mountain).  The summit of Frenyea is moderately thick.

From Frenyea, I could see Saddleback through the trees at a compass reading of about 20 degrees.  I was pleasantly surprised to find the travel to Saddleback to be fairly easy along my route.       

First look at Saddleback Mountain from Frenyea Mountain

I had several vantage points where I could get a good look at the false summit of Saddleback.  It gave me the opportunity to plan my ascent route.  I skirted a little west to avoid some of the steeper slab rock that faced south. 

Look at this easy walking!

Rev usually picked a good line for how to travel

After an hour from the car, I was on the false summit of Saddleback and minutes later I was on the true summit.  What a beautiful mountain.  I'll have to go back with Leesa.

Looking at Whiteface Mountain from the false summit

A zoom view of Whiteface

Looking SW from Saddleback

The summit of Saddleback Mountain

It really was a pretty day with the blue skies and fresh snow

There was a moderate breeze on Saddleback, so after admiring the views for about 15 minutes, I moved on.  I has expected the travel to Jay to be a light bushwhack, but I'd say it was more like a moderately difficult walk.  I tried to follow the ridge, but I had to maneuver about a bit.  I was finding thick spruce and boulders on the ridge, and blowdown on the slopes.  I was expecting about an hours walk to Jay, but it took more like 90 minutes.     

A look back at Saddleback Mountain 

Nearing the summit of Jay Mountain

The summit of Jay

The Jay Range

Once on the Jay Range, travel of course was easier.  I was quite surprised that wind wasn't bad on the ridge.  I think the wind was coming from the NE and the ridge felt nice in the sunshine.  It actually felt windier after I dropped off the ridge and was descending to the car.

A couple crows were bothering Rev on the ridge

looking back up the Jay range

I only ran into 2 people all day.  I saw one woman on the middle of the Jay range while I was leaving and she was climbing.  I saw a second woman with a dog enjoying the sunshine from the western most bump of the range.

   

I was able to call Leesa from the Jay Range and let her know that I could be down to the car in about 90 minutes if she could get there then.  From that point on, it was just an easy stroll down the new Jay trail back to the warm car.  

Hike Stats:

Hike Distance:  7.1 miles

Hike Time:  5 hours

Total Vertical Gain:  ~1950'

The route (click image to enlarge)

Saddleback, Gothics, Pyramid, Armstrong & Upper Wolfjaw - 8/24/13

We took advantage of perfect weather on Saturday to make a tour of most of the lower Great Range.  Leesa wanted to climb Gothics and Saddleback so we planned to park at the "Garden" parking area, in Keene Valley, and hike into Johns Brook Lodge before climbing the Orebed Trail.

 

We knew we'd have to arrive early to claim a parking lot.  The Garden fills extremely early on summer weekends.  The set the alarm for 4 AM and managed to get to the lot by 5:30.  There were still about 5 parking spots left.  We happily took one and geared up to head out.  I checked my watch and noted that we were on the trail at 5:42.  There was just enough morning light that we did not need to pull out the headlamps to get started.

 

Within minutes we saw a deer standing in the trail.  Our dog Rev wanted to make friends, but we put an end to that.  As we arrived at the NYSDEC Interior Outpost Ranger Station the sun was really coming out.  We could tell it was going to be a perfect day. 

 

 

NYSDEC Interior Outpost Ranger Station (near Johns Brook Lodge)

We crossed the suspension bridge to gain access to the Southside Trail.  From there we headed to the Orebed Trail.  Leesa had never been on this trail, so she was in for a treat. 

 

Suspension bridge over Johns Brook

As we began climbing, we passed the newly renovated Orebed Leanto.  It was just redone this past March.  5 guys were just up and about having breakfast there.  Next we reached the Orebed Slide.  Trail crews have recently done an outstanding job completing the stairs on the Orebed Slide.  I believe I read that there are 182 steps.  In any case, it is a marvel.  Great work done by the crew!

  

 

Rev headed up first

 

Leesa brought up the rear

Since we started early, we hadn't seen any other hikers yet, but that would soon change.  We arrived at the Saddleback/Gothics col and headed up Saddleback first.  We went up and over the wooded summit and stopped at an overlook ledge where we saw 3 guys taking a break.  We continued on to the top of the Saddleback Cliffs so Leesa could see what they looked like.  The 3 guys soon approached and they headed down the cliffs en route to Basin Mountain.  For us, this was our turn around point.  Leesa would not have wanted to descend the cliffs. 

 

The Saddleback Cliffs

We went back to the Saddleback/Gothics col and began our ascent of Gothics.  At this point, lots of other people were alongside us as we reached the cables en route to the false summit of Gothics.  The cables are not really necessary in dry weather conditions, but some people used them.  The section of slab rock just above the cables is where it gets tricky in icy winter conditions, and there are no cables there! 

 

At the false summit, a family was there taking a break and having a snack.  We continued on to the junction with the trail to Pyramid/Sawteeth.  I convinced Leesa that it was worth the short .3 mile trip over to Pyramid where there is perhaps the best view in all the high peaks.  On Pyramid, we took our first break an broke out some food.  Rev appreciated that!    

 

The view from Pyramid!

We returned to the Range Trail, a reached the summit of Gothics.  Several groups were on the summit.  We talked with 2 guys who were confused about how to get to Armstrong and Upper Wolf Jaw.  They had come from that way, but didn't realize it.

 

 

Gothics and Saddleback were both new summits for Leesa.  At this point we discussed our options.  We decided to continue on the Range Trail to complete a loop hike.  Leesa had not yet been on Armstong either, so by continuing onward, she could gain another new peak.  We would then go up and over Upper Wolfjaw before descending from the Wolfjaw col down to Johns Brook.   

 

Armstrong from Pyramid

 

 

Gothics from Pyramid

 

Pyramid

 

Rev returning to Gothics from Pyramid

 

... and waiting for us to scale the rock

The walk from Gothics to Armstrong is relatively easy and soon we were on Armstrong along with a probably 15-20 other people.  We had a little more food and continued on.  Soon we reached the ladder on the north side of Armstrong.  I had forgotten to dog harness, so it was a challenge with Rev.  I picked her up (like a pillow under my arm) and began going down the ladder.  I got about 2/3 down the ladder and she had had enough.  She jumped to her freedom, none the worse for wear.

  

 

a common sign near treeline

The trail between Armstrong and UWJ is rugged and we slowly picked away at it.  There is also a false summit in between the two.  As we reached the summit of UWJ we saw many of the same people we had seen all day long.  We took the 20 yard long trail to the summit and claimed our 4th high peak of the day.  This one was not new for either of us, but nice still the same. 

 

looking back towards Armstrong while climbing UJW

 

 

After dropping down to the Wolfjaw col we chose to return to Johns Brook.  Both of us have climbed Lower Wolfjaw several times and we didn't have the need to go up it again on this day. 

 

The return Johns Brook lodge was uneventful.  WE stopped in at JBL and I had a piece of chocolate cake.  We refilled a couple water bottles and soon found ourselves on the final 3.5 miles to the car.

 

The loop took us exactly 12 hours on this leisurely paced day.  We stopped for dinner at the Ausable Inn on the way out to cap a nice day on the range.

Our route

 

 

Hike Stats:

Hike Distance:  16.8 miles

Hike Time:  12 hours, including stops

Total Vertical Gain:  ~4900' 

A Most of the Great Range Day - 6/15/12

My intention for Friday was to climb 3 Adirondack High Peaks:  Haystack, Basin and Saddleback.  I parked at the Garden in Keene, NY at 5:20 AM.  I paid my $7 parking fee, signed the trail register and I was on the trail at 5:25.  I was the 2nd one to sign the register that morning.  One other group of 2 had signed in ahead of me with the same itinerary.

Little Haystack from Haystack

The weather forecast for the whole Northeast was looking great and I had no weather concerns.  My plan was to hike the Phelps Trail to Slant Rock, then take Shorey's Short cut to the State Range Trail.  I would then turn right and follow the Range Trail for a mile up over Little Haystack to Haystack.  I would then come back on the Range Trail and continue the other direction over Basin and Saddleback.  After descending Saddleback, I would drop down the Ore Bed trail to Johns Brook Lodge (JBL) and return to the car on the Phelps Trail the way I had come in.

Mount Marcy and Panther Gorge from Haystack

In the back of my head I thought that if I reached the Ore Bed trail junction early enough, and still felt great, I would not drop down, but continue on over Gothics, Armstrong and Upper Wolfjaw before dropping down the Wedge Brook Trail and out the Phelps trail.  I didn't think this was likely, but the thought was there.

The summit of Haystack

As it turned out, I made great time.  I passed JBL in just over an hour.  I was at Slant Rock in 2.5 hours.  In 3.25 hours I was on the State Range Trail and in 4 hours I was on the top of Haystack (9:30 AM).  There were no bugs!  I sat on the summit for 30 minutes without seeing a sole.  I ate a breakfast and enjoyed the fantastic views in all directions.

Basin and Gothic from Haystack (Saddleback is hidden behind Basin)

At 10 AM I left Haystack (4960') and headed for Basin (4827').  The col between the two is at about 3900', so the trail drops about a thousand feet before going back up.  I took advantage of a water source in the col to fill my 2 water bottles and I treated them both with my SteriPen.  I reached the summit of Basin at 11:20 AM.   Still no bugs and I was enjoying every minute of the hike.  Next up would be the Saddleback Cliffs.  I had not climbed them before and I had read that they are the most difficult climb in the High Peaks, especially in winter or when the rock is wet.  I had also read advice that they are easier to ascend, rather than descend, so that is why I chose to do this hike in the direction I did.

The summit of Haystack

I reached the cliffs and began scaling them with my daypack on my back.  I found them to be manageable, with only the one tricky spot that everyone talks about.  I would not want to go down them though.  I think the height would bother me looking down.  After the cliffs, I finished the ascent and was on the summit at 12:10.

The only flower type I could find on Haystack.  They are beautiful though...

I dropped down the back side of Saddleback and it was decision time.  I reached the Ore Bed Trail junction  at 12:30 and I still felt great.  I calculated that I could be back at the car at about 3 PM if I dropped down the Ore Bed.  On the other hand, by continuing on the State Range Trail, I would add a couple more miles to my hike and also a couple thousand more vertical feet.  If I continued on, I would probably get out about 5:30 or 6.  My biggest concern was my water.  It was almost gone and I would have to hike about 3.5 miles before I could get water again.

People seem to be obeying the signs

I stared at the sign that said Gothics summit 0.6 miles and decided to go for it and continue on.  After all, I had spent 4 hours hiking up to the ridge, I might as well walk on it for awhile.  I pressed forward and shortly I reached the cables on the side of Gothics.  They were not needed on this warm dry summer day, but I'm sure they come in handy in wet weather.

Skylight and Marcy from Haystack

As I was moving up through the cables, 2 guys approached from the other direction.  They told me they were doing a Great Range Traverse and had started at the Rooster Comb parking lot.  They planned to hike the entire Great Range and exit at the Garden (where I had started).  As I continued on, I began to think the Great Range Traverse would be a great thing to do.  In the end, by hiking the way I did, I hit 7 of the high peaks in the Great Range.  If I had added Marcy in the beginning, I would have done a full traverse.  I'm sure this will stick in my head for the future.

A ladder on the way up Basin

I reached the fine summit of Gothics at 1:10 PM and took my 2nd break of the day to eat lunch.  Gothics is another of the better summits to enjoy.  After lunch I continued my journey.  The trip to Armstrong was easy.      There isn't a deep col between Gothics and Armstrong.  I didn't stop on Armstrong but continued on to Upper Wolfjaw.   I had been on Upper Wolfjaw last December and it seemed more majestic on a crisp winter morning.  It was still nice though.  The far off views of Giant and Rocky Peak were beginning to look closer.

The summit of Basin

I dropped down to the deep col between Upper and Lower Wolfjaw.  It was now 2:50 PM and almost time to go down the Wedge Brook Trail to Johns Brook.  I finished my remaining water and thought about Lower Wolfjaw.  It doesn't have a view to speak of, but if I went up I could say I climbed all the high peaks in the Great Range.  I guess Marcy isn't technically considered part of the Great Range, although it is include in a "Great Range Traverse".  Maybe someone can clarify for me...

Saddleback and Gothics from Basin

Anyways, up I went.  I dropped my day pack so I could scamper up more quickly.  I began to think this wasn't a bright idea climbing this peak with no water left.  I was getting thirsty.  I reached the top and did an about face back to the col and my pack.  it was now 3:35 PM.   

From L-R, Haystack, Skylight and Marcy from Basin

I shouldered my pack and began a rapid descent.  After about 10 minutes I hit a water source and gladly filled my two water bottles.  I used the SteriPen on them both, drank one and refilled it.  The descent was quick as the Wedge Brook Trail was in good shape.

A close up of the Saddleback from Basin

I reached the trail head for the South Side Trail at 4:20 PM.  From there I had 2.7 miles of nearly flat walking back to the car.  I one point there was a small reroute necessary where one of the slides had taken out the trail.

Slides on Basin from Saddleback

I completed the last 2.7 miles in one hour and was back to the car exactly 12 hours after I started.

This was my most epic hiking adventure, but now I have to consider doing this again and including Marcy to have a full Great Range Traverse.

The trail up Gothics is visible from Saddleback

I felt surprising good when I reached the car.  I was quite thirsty of course so a milk shake from the Noonmark Diner disappeared rather quickly.

Looking back towards Saddleback and Basin from Gothics

By adding 4 more peaks to the original 3 in the itinerary,  I climbed 7 of the 8 peaks in the Great Range.  It was a day to remember.  I had perfect weather, very few bugs and just a nice day out.  The trails were a little muddy in spots, mostly near Armstrong and Upper Wolfjaw, but not too bad.

The summit of Gothics

Hike Stats:

Hike Distance:  20.2 miles

Hike Time:  12 hours (including stops)

Total Vertical Feet:  8080'

Gothics summit marker

One of the slides observed on the way out from the South Side Trail

My GPS route of the Great Range at EveryTrail

My route shown in blue

An enlarged view of my route (very beginning and end is cropped out)