Seward & Donaldson Mountains - Clockwise Loop - 7/5/14

So nice to have another weekend with perfect weather.  Two weekends ago, it was the same way.  I could get used to this.

 

This trip was planned by my wife Leesa, who needed Seward for her ADK 46 High Peaks.  She wanted to approach Seward via the Ward Brook herd path, then descend via the Calkins Brook herd path.  That was fine with me.  Any hike in the high peaks is a good hike, and I had not been on the Ward Brook herd path before.  I had heard nasty things about it, but we both wanted to experience it for ourselves.

 

We overslept a little and didn't get on the trail until about 8:15 AM.  There were only 2 parking spots left in the parking lot before cars would have to spill out into the shoulder of the Corey Road.  We grabbed one of the spots and got our gear together.

 



 

Drainage near Blueberry Pond

 

 

I thought the trail to the Blueberry leanto was surprisingly dry.  It's kind of a mindless, straight, flat trail and we hummed along.  At the leanto, we 4 tents pitched in various locations near the leanto, and one pitched in the leanto!  I always hate seeing this; it just shows a lack of common courtesy, not to mention it is against the rules.

 

We continued past the Blueberry leanto to the first cairn on the right, marking the Ward Brook herd path.  We had been hiking for 2 hours at this point.  As we began our way up, we both commented that it was nice that the path followed so close to the brook.  There were some locations with a fair amount of mud on the trail, but we were braced for what we thought would be something much worse.  

 



A very pretty Ward Brook

 

In addition to the pleasant Ward Brook, we enjoyed the viewpoints that offered us great views of Ampersand Lake and Mountain and Whiteface Mountain.

 

A look at Ampersand Lake and Mountain 

 

We didn't hurry our way up the Ward Brook herd path.  Leesa likes to hike cautiously on these rugged trails, and we had pretty of time.  We didn't intend to include Mount Emmons, just Seward and Donaldson on this day.  We spent 2 hours on the Ward Brook trail and we both rather enjoyed it.  I'm sure it can be a different story in winter, but it was fine on this day.  I wouldn't like to be on this trail if I was pressed for time, but at a leisurely pace, it is quite enjoyable.    

 

Working our way up the Ward Brook herd path

 

 

Another Ampersand picture.  I snapped a lot of these! 

 

 

Another spot along the Ward Brook herd path.

 

High on the Ward Brook path

 

As we approached the summit of Seward, we reached the band of cliffs that guard the summit.  We skirted around this and soon found ourselves on top.  This marks # 42 for Leesa!

 

We went past the wooded summit and stopped for lunch on the  west facing ledge.  There was a fantastic breeze all day and it felt real nice.  We continued on with our planned itinerary and headed for Donaldson Mountain.  In the col between the two, we ran into "Hiking Chick" and her hiking companions.  Nice to meet you!  She was doing the 3 Sewards.  We told her to consider the Ward Brook herd path to make her trip a counter-clockwise loop instead of going back down the Calkins Brook herd path that she had used on the way up.  She did just that and we saw her again back at the parking lot.  She got back just after we did.    

 

We also met a lot of other great people during the day.  Many of them recognized us from this blog.  It was nice to meet and talk with all of you.

 

 

Mount Emmons and Donaldson Mountain

 

We reached Donaldson and stopped again to soak up the perfect weather.  We could have easily taken a nap up there.  It was a perfect day.  Alas, we had to head back.  Besides, Rev can't sit still for more than a couple minutes before she begins her whimper indicating that it is time to move on.

 

a closer look

 

 

 

 

Coming down off Seward, heading for Donaldson

 

 

 

 

You can see from these pictures that we had lots of blue sky; just enough clouds were out to add some interest to the pictures.

 

Seward Mountain from Donaldson Mountain

 

 

 

 

Mount Emmons from Donaldson Mountain

 

The top third of the Calkins Brook herd path is fairly rugged, but once below a water crossing, the path becomes quite smooth and easy to walk on.  We did stop at the water crossing though to take off our boots and cool our feet off in the cold water, always a treat.

 

A small cascade on Calkins Brook

 

 

The Calkins Brook herd path bucket cairn

 

Interesting sign on the Calkins Truck Road intersection with the southern most trail leading to the parking lot.  

 

 

We found the distance from the trailhead to the Blueberry leanto to be 5 miles... not 3.8! 

 

We found the loop to be more enjoyable than an out-and-back and we give the Ward Brook herd path a thumbs up (in good weather and dry conditions).  The Sewards (and Seymour) are now done for Leesa.  She has 4 left (Cliff, Redfield, Sawteeth and Couchsachraga).  She wants to finish on Couch because nobody else does!

 

Hike Stats:

Hike Distance:  14.1 miles

Hike Time:  9 hours

Total Vertical Gain:  ~ 3000'      

 

The route was done clockwise.  (Click image to enlarge)

Whiteface Mountain - Connery Pond to Wilmington Reservoir - 7/4/14

As I continue to revisit peaks that I've climbed previously, I look to climb them via alternate 

routes.  In the case of Whiteface Mountain, I had not climbed it from Connery Pond or from the Wilmington Reservoir, so when I heard ADKJack (from the ADK High Peaks Forum) was headed that way on Friday I volunteered to tag along.  I had XC skied from Connery Pond to the Whiteface Leanto, but had never climbed to the summit from that route.

We met at the Connery Pond parking lot at 9:30 and were on the trail at 9:45.  My dog Rev joined us.  My wife Leesa was kind enough to volunteer to park our car at the Wilmington Reservoir to pick us up at the end of our traverse.  She actually met us on top of Marble Mountain.

The jeep trail to Whiteface Landing was drier than I had expected it to be.  It was a fast 45 minute walk.  

  

Lake Placid from Whiteface Landing

We saw these ski poles laying at Whiteface Landing

From Whiteface Landing we began the climb of Whiteface and 30 minutes later we arrived at the Whiteface leanto.  The leanto is about 3.5 miles from Connery Pond, but we had only climbed 400' thus far and still had 2700' to climb.  I had some trail mix and we continued on. 

Jack's knee didn't appreciate these large boulders that were in the trail 

As we climbed, it was obvious that we climbing into the clouds.  Our visibility was deteriorating.  As we got high on the shoulder we were in the fog of a cloud and had no visibility.  No views of Lake Placid were to be had today.

The view near the top...

As we started to climb out of the trees, the terrain felt very similar to the White Mountains.  The fog felt similar too!

Rev knew which way to go (she probably smelled the scent of previous hikers)

This part of the trail (high shoulder) was really interesting.

The final push

Sign just below the summit

Jack approaching the final push

I'm now batting 50 percent on visits to Whiteface.  I've had 2 visits with fantastic visibility and 2 visits socked in the clouds.  It had taken us 3.5 hours to hike the 6 miles to the summit from Connery Pond.

One thing about the clouds and fog, it kept visitors away.  There were only a dozen or so people milling about on the summit.  If it had been a bluebird day, I'm sure lots of people would have driven up.

Mike & Rev on top for 4th time together

Rev didn't care to rest...

Part of  the summit building complex

The oft photographed summit sign

We left the summit and hiked the trail down to the Wilmington turn.  From this point to the cairn marking the intersection with the Esther herd path, the trail was very wet.  Lots of standing water and mud.  Jack had entertained the thought of going to Esther but he didn't want us to hold up Leesa who would be at the Wilmington Reservoir trailhead.  We skipped Esther and continued on towards Marble Mountain.

I called Leesa on our 2 way radios, and it turned out she was on the trail and nearing the summit of Marble Mountain.  We all met on the summit of Marble.  The trip down to Wilmington Reservoir was a new trail for me.  I found this trail to be very nice.  Much nicer than the trail from the ASRC (in my opinion).  It doesn't get a lot of use and therefore has minimal mud.  The trail from Whiteface leanto to the summit is also lightly used and is in great condition.

Thanks Jack for letting me tag along with you on this hike.  It was a pleasure to hike with you once again.  This traverse was a nice way to see Whiteface.

Hike Stats:

Hike Distance:  10.8 miles

Hike Time:  6.5 hours

Total Vertical Gain:  ~ 3200'     

   

The route (click image to enlarge)

Sheperd's Tooth, Iroquois & Mount Marshall - 5/31/14

 

My primary goal today was Sheperd's Tooth, and I didn't want it the conventional way (from Iroquois Mountain).  I wanted it from Cold Brook Pass.  I knew it wouldn't be easy.  I had been thwarted previously (last October with my dog Rev).  This would be a solo trip; not even the dog was going with me.

It was 42 degrees when I got started from Upper Works.  The forecast called for partly sunny skies with the chance of afternoon showers.  I was on the trail at 7:30 heading for Indian Pass.  This was also my route last year. 

 



Nice bridge over Indian Pass Brook, just north of the Henderson Lean-to  

 I made good time, getting to Summit Rock in Indian Pass in 2 hours and the junction with the Cold Brook Trail in 2.5 hours.



A Painted Trillium colony!



Ladder just before Summit Rock in Indian Pass



The Wallface Cliff



Junction of Indian Pass and Cold Brook Trail

The Cold Brook Trail has some nice water pools in the early part of the trail form Indian Pass Brook.  I stopped at each of them to take some pictures.  They would be nice swimming holes in the warmer weather.  Speaking of weather, I wasn't getting any sunshine, and it fact the wind was picking up and I thought it might rain.

It took me an hour to climb the 1.8 miles to the height of land in Cold Brook Pass.  I went past the cairn to Marshall on the right, just a short distance west of the height of land.  I had hiked this herd path last year.

At the height of land (7 miles into my hike), I found a small cairn on the north side of the trail.  I went in the woods here looking for a route up the cliff band that guards Sheperd's Tooth.  I didn't find one so I came back to the trail and went a little further east.  In fact the trail was starting to drop towards Lake Colden at this point.  Looking up, it seemed that the cliffs were negotiable at this point.

I wasn't sure what my plan would be once I was on the Tooth.  It depended on the effort to get there.  I soon found out what that effort would be.  It was thicker than hell.  I was determined though.  There were no cliffs here, just really thick cripplebrush.  It took me an hour and 20 minutes to climb the .3 miles to the Tooth!  When I was about 10 minutes from the top, clawing my way through, I found a small pocketknife.  It didn't look like it had been there that long.  If anyone lost it, describe it to me and I'll get it back to you. 

As I was crawling up the hill the sun finally began to make an appearance.  Finally I made it to the top.  I had only been there about 3 minutes when "NikeUSA" from the ADK High Peaks Forum appeared.  I had read that he was planning to hike to Sheperds Tooth this weekend from Iroquois, but I didn't know what day.  It was quite a coincidence.  We chatted for a few minutes and then I decided to continue upward to Iroquois (I didn't want to go back down the way I came up).

The top of Sheperds Tooth is near!  Finally.

Lake Colden, Flowed Lands and Calamity Mountain from Sheperds Tooth

Mount Colden and Lake Cold from the Tooth 

 

 

 

Zoom view of Wallface

 

 

Iroquois from the Tooth

 

 

A last look from the Tooth 

 

As I emerged from the Sheperds Tooth herd path onto the open rock on the side of Iroquois, I ran into "Mamamac", also from the High Peaks Forum.  She was with several other folks; one of whom told me how to get to the plane wreck on Mount Marshall!

 

In no time I was on the summit of Iroquois, one of my favorite high peaks.  Several other folks were there taking a rest and enjoying the view.  I decided I would take the trail from the Boundary/Algonquin col down to Lake Colden, and if I had enough time, I would ascend the Cold Brook Trail from the east to go and look for the plane wreck. 

Sheperds Tooth from Iroquois 

 

 

 

Algonquin from Iroquois

 

 

The nice new bog bridges.  They are great!

 

 

 

 

It took me just over an hour to go down to Lake Colden.  The water along the way was fantastic as always.  I passed 5 groups on their way down and 2 groups going up.  I was surprised by the amount of people on this trail, but I guess its the only one up to the MacIntyre Range from the Lake Colden area.

 

It was 2:30 when I got to the Interior Outpost.  I decided to go back up Cold Brook from the east to find the plane wreck.  I was told it was about 2/3 of the way up to the pass.  I kept stopping to scout around but found nothing.  Finally at 3:30 I found it.  It is just east of the height of land, behind a large boulder that sits 10' off the trail on the Mount Marshall side. If you walk behind the boulder, you will see it.  It is just a 100 yards or so off the trail.  There is a description of what happened here if you scroll down a little ways.  The accident happened August 9, 1969 and the plane is a Cherokee 140. 

    

The Mount Marshall plane wreck

 

 

The inside, looking towards the tail 

 

The left wing clipped a tree, broke off and lies nearby



Well now it was 3:45, and I was at the height of land of the Cold Brook Trail.  I decided to climb Mount Marshall from cold Brook and then go down the Herbert Brook herd path instead of going back down the Cold Brook Trail.  Just as I was at the cairn I came across a woman heading east on the Cold Brook Trail.  I described to her where to find the plane wreck.  She was excited since she did not know there was a wreck in the area.

I had forgotten how rugged this herd path to  Marshall is.  I was starting to get a little tired at this point.  At 4:30 I was on top of Marshall.  It was now time to high tail it down to Flowed Lands and out the Calamity Brook Trail.

I made it...

 

Iroquois and Sheperds Tooth from Mount Marshall 

 

I passed several groups going down Marshall (including a 3rd member of the High Peaks Forum, YanaLG).  Nice meeting you.  There were also a couple groups climbing who had to be camping in the area.

 

I reached the Herbert Brook lean-to (my ADK adopted lean-to) at 5:40 and gave it a quick inspection.  The were 3 people taking an afternoon nap in there.  They had gone to see sunrise on Mount Marcy this morning and were now catching up on sleep.

 

Next I made quick work of the Calamity Brook Trail and signed out at exactly 7:30 PM.  Same time that I signed in.  My last goal was to get back to Schroon Lake and catch some dinner before the restaurants closed.  I was successful!

 

My journey to Sheperd's Tooth is now complete.  I ended up covering a lot more ground than I expected to today, but it was a great day.  There were no bugs.  While walking though the re-route section of the Calamity Brook Trail, I was really enjoying the perfect weather at the end of the day.  More pictures can be found here on my Picasa Web Album.

 

Hike Stats:

Hike Distance:  19 miles

Hike Time:  12 hours

Total Vertical Gain:  ~ 5500'

 

  

 

The route (click to enlarge)

 

 

a closer look at the main part

 

National Geographic map